"ISLAND HOUSE RESTAURANT"  

SEPTEMBER 16, 2004      TOLEDO CITY PAPER

JEWEL OF THE ISLE

Island House Restaurant on Kelley's Island worth the Trip 

      by Chef John E. Clark

The Island House Restaurant & Martini Bar
131 Division St.
Kelley's Island
Access via Miller Boat Line in Marblehead, Ohio
Open after Labor Day
Thu-Sun: 4-10 p.m.
Closed for the season Oct. 31
Attire is casual
419-746-2800

The house at 131 Division St. is a large, Italianate-styled building that stands tribute to builder and long-time occupant Henry Trieschman. Trieschman, a German immigrant from Hesse, came to the United States with his wife and brother in the 1860s and settled for a short period in Sandusky. They later moved to Kelley's Island, and in 1876, built the home and started a butcher business fattening their own livestock on a 35-acre plot. During
the latter part of the 20th century, Trieschman converted the house into a restaurant, The Island House, without spoiling its beautiful architectural integrity.
The Island House served Kelley's Island residents and visitors great meals and memories for years, and that hasn’t changed with the landmark’s new owners. In the spring, Terry and Beth Kranyak of Detroit realized their long-time dream of owning the house. The Kranyaks own another island business, the Sun and Surf Bed & Breakfast. After purchasing the restaurant, they redecorated the dining rooms and bar, then updated the kitchen into a more modern and elegant facility. Each one of the three dining rooms is a different color scheme of brilliant and alive colors, accented with modern free-form lighting and window treatments. The bar area and main entrance areas are focal points in the interior design. The entrance is a warm and inviting area offering overstuffed couches and chairs for patrons to feel at home as they wait for an available table. The martini bar is a sunken room off the main entrance area that is a modernistic three-sided bar with some of the most unique drinks to be found anywhere.
But more importantly, the Island House offers a variety of cutting-edge culinary pleasures from Chef Matt Kilbane, a graduate of the Culinary Institute of Pennsylvania, and Chef Dan VanKannel. Both Kilbane and VanKannel were raised in the west-Cleveland area. The chefs learned about the restaurant from an old high school friend, Molly Christofferson, a niece of the Kranyaks who works the front of the house. Other family members also work at the restaurant. Terry and Beth’s daughter, Meghan, is a bartender and Beth’s mother, Caroline, is a host.
The menu includes cold and hot appetizers. The smoked salmon pinwheels ($9) are a creamy mixture of cream cheese, capers and onions wrapped around thin-sliced smoked Atlantic salmon. The curry chicken salad ($7) is stuffed into two halves of fresh avocado, and was a great combination of hot and cool. Hot selections include grilled banana peppers with a signature chorizo stuffing that are baked with a rich red sauce and provolone cheese ($6). Another innovative appetizer is the Prince Edward Island mussels sautéed with peppers, olives, aged balsamic and a secret seasoning ($7).
The entrees are wonderful culinary creations, and have interesting ingredients including Ohio-raised Piedmontese beef filet ($29), which is hormone and antibiotic-free. Other high-quality ingredients are free-range chicken, fresh seafood and locally grown potatoes. These ingredients and the talents of both chefs are transformed into artfully presented offerings such as the maple-glazed Atlantic salmon ($19) served with a choice of sides, including a special sweet potato mash with sweet corn and onions. A wide selection of pasta dishes, including black bean Alfredo with fire roasted chicken breast and chorizo with peppers, onions, corn and tomatoes over rotini ($11), compliment the menu.
An evening of dining at the Island House Restaurant and Martini Bar would not be quite complete without one of the dessert creations. My favorite is the butterscotch crème brulee ($7) served with a rich cup of fresh brewed coffee.
A trip to the Island House includes a ferryboat ride from Marblehead, but the dining experience is worth the effort.

 
 

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