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| Embraced by a Culture | |
| Saigon Bistro brings Vietnamese food to Toledo by John E. Clark | |
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Saigon Bistro 4040 Airport Highway 419-382 1212 Tue – Thu: 11 a.m – 9 p.m. Fri & Sat: 11 a.m. – 10 p.m. Sun: 11 a.m. – 8 p.m. Closed Mondays When told of my newest assignment, reviewing a Vietnamese restaurant, I was a bit in the dark as to what to expect. I’ve experienced Chinese, Thai and even some Japanese-style cooking, but Vietnamese cuisine was a mystery. My experiences regarding Vietnam were those of growing up in the troubled times of the ’60s in a small town in Ohio, and had nothing to do with the real culture of a people halfway round the world. I found that Vietnam has one of the most sophisticated and exciting cuisines in the world. Historical influences and geographical gifts helped create a cuisine rich in its variety, color and freshness of ingredients. Vietnam’s culinary history combines three major culinary influences: French, Chinese and Indian. This diverse history of influences leaves this style of cooking with many of what I feel are some of the most desirable attributes of an evening of well-prepared dining. All of this, along with a fabulous presentation, were certainly evident at the Saigon Bistro. Entering this modestly decorated, yet appealing dining room is an adventure to the eye. Authentic Vietnamese art adorns the walls and each has its own story of how it came to Toledo. After being seated, the grace and charm of the Bistro begins to be evident. The sincere smile of a family member who welcomes you makes you feel like it is truly a pleasure that you have come to dine. Knowing little to nothing about Vietnamese cuisine is not a hardship at the Saigon Bistro. The staff, mostly family, will discuss with you the differences in the culinary culture of Vietnam. The menu, as diverse as the country, was explained so we had an understanding of the differences between the Northern, Central and Southern styles of food preparation. Owners, Son Tran and his brother-in-law, Dahn Tran, make any cultural differences quickly forgotten with their talent for food preparation and tableside manners. Speaking of tables, the dining room is in a color scheme that in its simple way makes the presentation of the food greatly enhanced with all white nontraditional-shaped plates against the black lacquered tables and chairs. The summer spring rolls and shredded pork rolls ($3.95 for two) were perfectly complemented with a variety of dipping sauces that were all made by Chef Danh from family recipes. Chef Danh moved to the Los Angeles area from Saigon at 17 and his brother-in-law came to the United States at an earlier age and lived in the New Orleans area before moving to Toledo. Our entrees arrived with perfect timing and were as diverse as the appetizers in their appearance and flavors. The Mi Dac Biet ($6.95) is a delicate clear broth soup with thin egg noodles, seafood, beef and garnished with a quail egg. A house specialty, Mi Xao Don Dac Biet ($9.95) is a delight to the eye and the pallet. A bird’s nest fashioned with crispy noodles filled with an assortment of fresh seafood and meats tastes as great as it looks. I recommend the marinated grilled pork chip served with Jasmine rice or fried rice and a very unusual and wonderful egg cake ($8.95). The evening was filled with the aromatic aroma of Jasmine rice, fish sauce (nuoc mam) and stories about Vietnam’s culture and cuisine told to us by Son Tran’s sister as she served us Chef Danh’s culinary delights. The Saigon Bistro has been open for less than three months, however, the menu and staff leave this diner with the feeling of being embraced by a culture. Menu items are available for dining in or carryout. |
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| John E. Clark is the executive chef for Advanced Maritime Officers Training Center for the Great Lakes Merchant Marines in Toledo. |
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