FEBRUARY 10, 2005    TOLEDO CITY PAPER
 

SMEDLAP'S SMITHY

Smedlap’s Smithy conjures up Good Grub by John E. Clark
Food from the blacksmith
Smedlap’s Smithy
205 Farnsworth Rd.
Waterville
419-878-0261
Mon-Thu: 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m.
Fri-Sat: 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m.
Reservations accepted
All major credit cards accepted

The saga began when Smedlap Effingtass immigrated from Slippery Rock, Ga., in 1793, to the mouth of the Maumee River. He began selling hooch, first to the Indians and later to General “Mad” Anthony Wayne. In 1836 he constructed the building in Waterville now known as “The Old Plantation.” Effingtass married one Quindora Metzberger, daughter of the village blacksmith and learned the blacksmith trade. Don Buckhout, a distant relative of Effingtass, decided to follow his ancestors canal path to Waterville. There, in the 1970s, he opened a tribute, Smedlap’s Smithy, where the tradition of fine food, spirits and fun would begin.
Since October 2004, Smedlap’s Smithy has been owned by John Laskey. Chef Cledas Horton became executive chef — after 10 years as the corporate chef of the now departed Cooker’s restaurant chain.
Smedlap’s does a great job in the menu diversification. It offers the Calamari appetizer of lightly battered and seasoned calamari garnished with roasted red and yellow bell pepper ($8), potato skins ($6) and my favorite, bacon wrapped scallops served with a teriyaki pineapple sauce ($9), all fantastic.
One of the signature dishes I found interesting is the Chicken Frangelico. This house favorite consists of two chicken breasts sautéed in a Frangelico sauce, topped with dried cranberries and walnuts ($15). For fish lovers, try the potato-encrusted pickerel filet served with a lemon beurre blanc ($17) — the fish was baked to perfection and the shredded potato crust lightly browned.
There are many dishes that give the comfort of a home-cooked meal such as the slow roasted pot roast with three vegetables, smothered in homemade brown gravy ($13) and my wife’s favorite, meatloaf ($12). In addition to creative cuisine, Smedlap’s offers great service. The trip to Waterville is worthwhile. It’s said that no matter who might greet you at the door, the ghost of Smedlap will always guide you to your table.

 

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